![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/76f8f800-d3ad-4c7a-a092-34dd5096c218_rw_1920.jpg?h=a816ca2836847f4d27bd293b82deffac)
The nomads of Kyrgyzstan live with their animals surrounded by seven thousand meter peaks in the Tian-Shan mountains.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/7f61f360-a038-4631-8b15-785021c087a6_rw_1920.jpg?h=83bcc488147adbf269e7d89095d03ff5)
They can only be found by those who travel by horse, off-road vehicle or racing bike.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/cc097bb0-1c47-4a1b-aa08-a40e7c5bc038_rw_1920.jpg?h=df44ad2c992f59c04c62d5b5eedc0839)
The paths to the yurts and hermitages lead along the border with China and Kazakhstan.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/db7b4364-c347-4912-bda3-80b6820ada2e_rw_1920.jpg?h=b93e8e35b2a273378ee77b1de5b68799)
The 3.460 m high Kalmak Ashu is already 1000 meters higher than the major passes of the Alps.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/415695c7-00d8-48f8-8e47-b895131ae4ce_rw_1920.jpg?h=5cd4082b0070114b2e250bde6081bddf)
I have lost my buddies, there is no cell phone reception. It gets dark and freezing cold.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/250a3978-c817-46cd-84de-6cac94ea04be_rw_1920.jpg?h=20bea6787da2252647bba30cd73956cd)
Boys call out, run up to me and give me chocolate from their pants pocket for strengthening.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/87537832-1fcf-47dc-8b97-6a103cd69ce0_rw_1920.jpg?h=e57fcc0c97bae57882ab53fbf54000b7)
The nomads in Kyrgyzstan are likely to have originated in the Altai Mountains of Mongolia.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/6c7570d3-2cbf-4317-bc00-af2eae8398ab_rw_1920.jpg?h=fac63def6eb9503120b0aae4eb1ee8a5)
Survival between steppe, semi-desert and high mountains requires livestock.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/79a4a3df-a7e7-4b19-9c41-373a951c2ad3_rw_1920.jpg?h=9660c278cfafdac6f8624155317bb26b)
The heat in the yurt lasts for two hours, then it's ten below zero again.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/2e60d87c-1072-4565-b256-23556c831e97_rw_1920.jpg?h=4d2bb9baed5ee67c5eedb036e3cf97f5)
First of all, the bicycle is taken care of.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/34c7718e-fbc1-4a78-a9b3-d5030c49bd23_rw_1920.jpg?h=8337022444341c4b6628e1c194fecc14)
I have breakfast with Jana, she just came from Afghanistan with her horse. Then we hike to the Kölsuu.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/e73f3213-0596-4ab1-a842-da5a5e7ed704_rw_1920.jpg?h=15635addb9eeb3091e210068881b025f)
The Tash Rabat caravanserai was built in the 14th century as a shelter for travelers along the Silk Road.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/83359be6-30f0-4306-9056-55634a67008b_rw_1200.jpg?h=7d031b929f1aea59b3aa39466e044edc)
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/e542c461-76cf-4e6b-9dc2-0248b187d171_rw_1200.jpg?h=a6ad3f4e686d8fc278d0cd46bee2af71)
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/e42e2bfe-04f4-44bb-961d-a6a96559ef9d_rw_1920.jpg?h=7d714077be8114da3a31a11161d97002)
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/40b72580-9c40-42ab-8e08-4a19d70218e6_rw_1920.jpg?h=40c924aeecf054a9d40beb4ed1159c24)
With special permission I ride the Torugart Highway up to an altitude of 3,700m. Next to me the Chinese Uyghur Autonomous Region Xinjiang.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/dbba1430-9bcd-48b4-9396-36f24278eefd_rw_1920.jpg?h=c802c545750fdd7dc811b4e896fd902a)
It's wonderful to be able to reach China on its own strength.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/e071ef55-e57e-4b60-a364-04a5310278bc_rw_1920.jpg?h=bcd9300b43dc35fd78abb47517ca4204)
At Tosor Pass at 3,900 m a wolf welcomes me. In the meantime, my companions tow parents who had to spend the night in the car with their infant.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/17946349-3f1f-4fab-bffd-bead1e4099d3_rw_1920.jpg?h=916180131e1d638c62f2de35d172c67e)
I cycle from hermitage to hermitage along the border between Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/38531f46-8d8d-4665-8d38-45f153ac8628_rw_1920.jpg?h=99d6e4af6359b5928dbfd4bdea5ffa31)
Kasid erklärt mir mit strahlendem Gesicht auf Kirgisisch, dass sie hier in der Jurte mit ihren Geschwistern lebt.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/8dc12cc9-e675-4412-8ea7-94ba2f60a55b_rw_1920.jpg?h=26baab5a712c401dc04ead9af0b6e1fa)
Then come storms, heavy rain and snow.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/0484645d-52f9-40bb-984b-e49046faa399_rw_1920.jpg?h=9e44303a3cc2c5b12457118a65bc32f8)
Reached the Yssykköl. It is one of the largest mountain lakes in the world with its length of 182 kilometers.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/f1293a47-985f-4ccb-89b6-7ea4b1be75ec_rw_1920.jpg?h=0e7a6c83369cbd45ae3b90ac4526f73e)
Engilchek was once home to 9,000 miners and their families.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/de8a044e-6b0a-4cee-86e2-1416d0a5b292_rw_1920.jpg?h=51e18c592b95762f86d147c08adc2045)
Zaire moved here from the capital two years ago. He works in the mine, which is now run by a Chinese company.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/24393aa5-c4c7-493b-8db4-3e99a2ec657e_rw_1920.jpg?h=e20cf6749d4e29fb00a02a05aca22af3)
We have found the guest house.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/0c9fe69a-51fc-4ac6-a071-f4a0a27bce52_rw_1920.jpg?h=d9adee81c87e276ace87a1994ad38c4e)
They once had a hospital, a school and stores.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/92f765c3-9dcf-4f48-a27a-4431341d043b_rw_1920.jpg?h=a5df19e3388e1a748f16fff269197910)
Today, twelve families live in Engilchek.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/5c7f6441-1d11-49c3-8900-cef616b51eae_rw_1920.jpg?h=42d9b9237861c58b76884c47ee25c5a6)
Livestock market in Karakol, every Sunday at dawn.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/cf3c0b43-df78-45c9-b48e-a1f257da3dd9_rw_1920.jpg?h=cf8160f8faca7ced32f27ad1738448ad)
For Kyrgyz nomads, animals are everything.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/50a071d5-2b4b-48b5-a4db-4a6a24f884b8_rw_1920.jpg?h=a3d5228fcb40cdc00270a7b38ff86e1f)
Animals serve as food and transportation, signal wealth, and are means of barter.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/e1861415-3871-42b8-91b2-9a3befc367ea_rw_1920.jpg?h=70c0d56a8f05950e68db81ae63d90ee1)
Bargaining is an old Kyrgyz tradition and has a high social and community function.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/13455e5b-3d8f-4066-922b-efa7e7a9303e_rw_1920.jpg?h=2b28af83b8ff2b0829b5d3e25e6ab953)
Somehow I chat with the kids, then they proudly pose for my photo.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/2a10863e-e51e-4f4a-af4d-47a13a96c1fb_rw_1920.jpg?h=ab10e3ab26fa97819fc848e11721451e)
I help a local to cross the river. In thanks, he waves the index finger of his right hand toward his throat and fetches a bottle of vodka for us.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/f3b9ce22-499a-4687-8aab-5a6dab7b5f7a_rw_1920.jpg?h=e86e543eb9390d02f1875ccd1109bf81)
Already since dawn the whole family cooks soup from horse meat for 500 guests of today's wedding celebration.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/f96cb0a2-f0a5-44f8-aa2f-2ec0c7bfa44c_rw_1920.jpg?h=72d0ed876097a55668cbd002f275a192)
The house of the family of five has a living room, a small kitchen, no running water and no toilet. The girl has been able to hear for a few weeks, thanks to a cochlear implant.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/3a5112bd-0508-402d-8d42-4c5e3b2a0d5f_rw_1920.jpg?h=1875d7681aa754790906088692f92386)
That is also Kyrgyz hospitality.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/e5a8d826-71e4-4a26-894b-ccb56224c61f_rw_1920.jpg?h=b2b2876f6e822261ae4cb7d739030839)
Horse meat is available only at the birth of a child, a wedding and a funeral.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/5c45e310-bb1c-44ae-b656-d87ef00a0eb4_rw_1920.jpg?h=c4f24c093d57f1cb577600656e5c6e94)
The Ala-Too Square of the capital Bishkek gives an idea of the gigantonomy of bygone times.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/bcd00be0-9415-48a9-bce9-3c6d9c855922_rw_1920.jpg?h=531f007802cb19a8ba46954db793f832)
The charm of Soviet architecture is complemented by huge SUVs. The car as the successor of the horse.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/504ebb74-6bce-411b-8c46-d04073432c95_rw_1920.jpg?h=0f8b38f3b015601fd289863d82e94ff7)
"Carrying on the fire" has a high religious-cultural meaning in Zoroastrianism.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/71423436-4271-42b8-8d22-6c76a11822c3_rw_1920.jpg?h=32402bad4001fc7a07bfb9a608b47141)
The bride and groom come in the stretch limousine and celebrate in Las Vegas atmosphere.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/efdb1048-96b2-49c5-b1ac-47436f4a554a_rw_1920.jpg?h=905af0a6700ae12bcc5e8124223dabe2)
I am invited to give a congratulatory speech. The longer, the greater the appreciation.
![](https://cdn.myportfolio.com/74fce31a-298e-432c-9a31-268a9f4efa72/aa7fec48-2a7e-4680-95d8-78af537918c3_rw_1920.jpg?h=d7d899911d1d35181f5f90b7bcbd82af)
As a farewell, there is horse meat and kumys, fermented mare's milk.